Wednesday, November 11, 2009

More Fall Photos





It's Automne!






"Blue skies, sunshine what a day for taking a walk in the park": I can almost hear Marilyn McCoo and Billy Davis singing that song today. As I shuffled my feet like a seven year old through piles of multi-colored leafs I was humming it. So where was I? Well I could have been in any parc in Paris; actually all of Paris is dressed in the colors of autumn. Well, today, Wednesday (Mercredi) I went out for the first time with a walking group. About half were English based and half French. People from around the world: Interesting, receptive and active. This is what travel promotes; meeting other people with like interests. Makes it so much fun.
We departed from the 15th (my arrondissment) and took off for a 2 l/2 hour saunter through Parc Andre Citroen, Parc Departmental de Ile St Germain and Parc de St Cloud. It was a lovely, brisk fall day. Here are some photos to remember Automne in Paris. The change of seasons can be fantastic. More photos to prove that statement coming up! San Diego can not compete with autome in France.

Word for the day: Autumn Automne

Cluny Museum






OK, so admittedly I put off the Cluny Museum. For eight trips to Paris I ignored it. What was medieval art to me? Well, I have a thing or two to learn. I loved the Cluny! I thought it was so well done. One could get up front and personal with the many displays.
They recovered some of the Kings of Judah heads that were knocked off the statues at Notre Dame during the French Revolution and there they were. Apparently, the revolutionists thought they were the statues of the kings of France. While the statues at Notre Dame were repaired (with new heads) it was until about 1977 that they were unearthed by accident. Voila! There they were inches in front of my face.

The whole museum was done so well, I loved it all. And it was an affordable 8 euros (including audio cassette). You might say it was a user-friendly museum.

My favorite display, however, without a doubt, was the stained glass. (Here we go again). Maybe I was a medieval artisan in another life, but these stained glass displays are phenomenal. They were actually taken from the St Chappelle chapel. If you recall I wrote about how high the glass windows normally are in all these cathedrals and that it was frustrating not to be able to get closer to see them better. Not at the Cluny. They were right there in front of you; you could actually touch them. They are just so beautiful that I had to share some of them with you in photos. And they were done in "the dark ages". I guess they needed something beautiful to look at and meditate in front of and these windows provided that outlet. Here are just a few. Enjoy!

Word of the Day: Stained Glass Verre colore

Sunday, November 8, 2009

The Best of Pompidou Art?






This is the best of the worst at Pompidou Center. Enjoy.

A Bad Review in Paris? Oui!.






I finally found something that I did not like in Paris. Anything is possible here! I had heard about it, but never took the time to visit. This is the thanks I get for staying so long!.

The name is the Pompidou Center. I do not agree with the famous travel guru, Rick Steves' who says: "a piano smashed to bits and glued to the wall is refreshing." It is not refreshing! He says it is "an artistic kick in the pants"....hummm, I tend to agree with that, although question the definition of "art". Admittedly, I have never been tuned in or turned on to modern and surrealistic art. It just doesn't do a thing for me. But I keep reaching out to see what is out there. Out there is trash.

Upon first approaching this building you have to stop and just stare at it. Built in 1977, its controversial facade houses controversial "art". All the piping, heating,ducts and escalators show on the outside of the building, which houses several floors of exhibits, student libraries etc inside. It is sort of like a pit bull puppy: so ugly you almost love its' ugliness...almost. I plunked my 12 euro
($19 US)down and reminded myself to be opened. Hummm. Guess I failed at that!

I had allotted myself three hours to get through the many floors. I finished in just over an hour. Of course, there were floors they didn't allow us on (not that they warned us about that prior to pluncking down our euros). My photos show you the best of the best of the Pompidou Center (also called Musee National d'Art Moderne). Let me save you the twelve euros and share my photos, which should save your valuable time at this controversial building. You owe me. The most fun part was finding these two fashionestas who were perfect for the building. They might have been strung up with everything else and given a prize for most original outfits (no it was not Halloween). The photo of the Church is the view from the glass bubble escalator. Back to Musee d'Orsay!

I am following up with photos of my favorite works of "art" in next installment.

Word for the day: yuk (same in every language)

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Chartres Stained Glass and Vaux le Vicomte






few photos of Vaux le Vicomte and Chartres stainned glass windows...enjoy.

What a Week!



So, I figure you all must be getting quite bored hearing nothing but acclamations and affirmations about all that is surrounding me. But je suis desole (I am sorry); afterall, I am in Paris!

Last week Julien and I took a day trip to Vaux le Vicomte, a chateau an hour outside of Paris. It was supposed to be more beautiful than Versailles but I didn't think so. Although the photo shown of the fountain with the crown (in the second above insertion of photos)is beautiful, in my opinon it was not as elaborate or large as Versailles. Since it is not accessible via train there were a lot less tourists and so it was much more relaxing that my day at Versailles. However, there is an interesting story here>: It was constructed by Nicolas Fouquet, the Finance Minister of King Louis XIV (wonder where he got the money...hummm). When the king saw the beauty and opulence of the estate, he had old Nicolas arrested and imprisoned for life. Actually, he wanted him hanged, but apparently a few of his judges had pangs of ethics (of all things) and all would not agree to a hanging. Apparently, it was nicer than where Louis himself was living and he was incensed about it (it doesn't pay to one up the king). Nicolas' enemy, I think his architect, was then contracted to build a bigger and more beautiful estate for the King: Versailles. The king confiscated the property from Nicolas' family and eventually gave it to the architect. Ah, politics: don't you just love it?

Last Wednesday I finally took the train to Chartres, about an hour outside of Paris. Well, I took the train and the bus: you might say I took the long way. Somehow I managed to miss my stop in Chartres and on I went to the end of the line, quite frustrated with myself at my own stupidity. So I got off in LaMans, walked around for an hour and took the bus back to Chartres, precious time lost in a charming little town that I would have enjoyed had I more time. OK, I am not the brightest marble in the bunch...

Chartes contains the world's largest display of medieval stained glass. About 80 percent is original. That in itself is amazing. Think of it: surviving, plight, revolutions, wars, fires, bombs, pilferage...from the rebuilding of it in 1260. Unlike Notre Dame and many other cathedrals in Europe, it was built in 66 years. Most cathedrals took hundreds of years to build. Ten years were spent on the stained glass windows in the Cathedral! Only ten! While they were renovating the middle section but it is a lovely church and well worth the day trip from Paris if you are sojourning to Paris.

Had I more time I would have loved to have seen the factory where they demonstrate how these stained glass windows are made. Maybe another time? It is impossible to understate the true beauty of these windows. In medieval times (even now by some) light was symbolic of God. It is referred to in the bible many times that God is light. When they started building these huge cathedrals they added the windows to symbolize the divine for decorative purposes, meditative purposes and to just plain show off their devotion to a favorite saint, mother of Christ or to God.

The town was fun. Cute little shops, cafes and streets with funny names, all added to a charming trip too soon completed and I dragged my tired self back to the train and managed to get off at the other end of the line: Paris.

Thursday night I meet a French gentleman (who now lives in the US) for dinner. We almost missed each other as we each sat in different places of a chic little brasserie called Chez Francis, with views of the Eiffel Tower. Finally, both of us were ready to leave and a waiter finally connected us. Gads! We had a most enjoyable dinner and he even had thoughtfully bought me a little French cookbook (in English, thank goodness), and a rose as we walked over to the Eiffel Tower. I may never see that man again but it was such an enjoyable time together and he was intelligent, charming and thoughtful. So what else could I hope for than that? That is Craig's List at its finest (it is not always at its finest, however).

Friday, I managed to see an old friend from Pacific Athletic Club in Del Mar, where I used to exercise, and her triplet sisters. We started at their hotel, Le Bristol with Dom Perignon and appetizers and eventually went out for an Italian meal. All three of them were delightful, classy ladies and I was privileged to share some time with them.

Sunday, another museum freebie day, I chose Musee Rodin. My photos did not turn out well; I wish I could find a camera shop where they spoke English to help reset the camera properly, but I cannot so my indoor photos don't come out well. They are grainy. Any help from my friends back home would be appreciated. I love Rodin. He sculpted over 6400 sculptures in his life! Can you imagine? And I ask myself what have I done with MY life? Yiks, another glass of wine, sil vous plait. When I return to Paris(as I know I will) I must go back. But I definitely want to get a art book back home on him. They are just too heavy to buy here and take back in my luggage.

I also went to Hotel de Invalides, but they didn't have Napoleon's tomb opened and the rest was, in my humble opinion, a waste of time. It is an impressive building on the outside but nothing much to brag about inside. Onward I walked right through the rain home some several arrondissments away.

Sunday night I went to a dinner party with a Meetup group and met several people all of whom I hope to see again. A most pleasant evening, as well.

Monday night I finally got my wish to see a performance at the magnificent Opera Garnier, not of opera but a ballet. "Joyeaux"! I had a fourth row center seat and it was a peaceful, absorbing performance. The ensemble troop, however, really need better back up with more talented male dancers. There were only two who stood out as confident, really talented performers. Nonetheless, the inside of that theatre is breathtaking. The Chagall ceiling, the ornate, Phantom-of-the-Opera reliefs and good patinas were fabulous. That is another place I want to get a book about and read more about it. And I finally dressed up in black cocktail, sexy attire (yes I can be if I set my mind to it) and mingled and flirted and thought: It doesn't get any better than this...

I went with my friend, Julien, to the Renoir Exhibit at Grand Palais today. These artists were so totally absorbed with their work; one wonders how it might have been to be married to these obsessive, work horses! Seriously, they showed a film with Renoir in his later years. He was crippled with arthritis in a wheel chair talking to his admirers and painting for them. His hands were so crippled they had to put the paint brush into his hands and then take it out when he was through stroking. Amazing; These artists lived for their craft.


Word for the day: fabulous fabeleux