The Dog Days of Summer

"Summer time and the living is easy." Whoever wrote that apparently did not experience summer in Paris. My activities have come to a screeching halt and the weather is so exhausting it leaves no energy for anything else! I am a weather wuss; I can't manage to do anything when I am really hot. And hell is the metro in the summer. Gads! It is going down to the furnace, squeeze yourself in like a sardine and watch the sweat drip off your nose. Help Me, I'm melting. Heat in Paris, however, means something different (see photo of couple who is well-adjusted to Paris weather.).

While I have curtailed my schedule, I still manage to get out most days. The best thing one can do in Paris is walk (even in the heat). I stumble upon all sorts of fun things when I do that. Last Saturday there was a neighborhood "flea market" and out of nowhere comes this little entertainment group marching along. (photo)

Later that day I was in the first arrondissement and stumbled upon a wedding. The people were dressed to the hilt. With hats like this young woman wore, I thought maybe the Queen was expected. Very uppercrust. (photo)

I also ran into a huge group of people on strike. There were police everywhere. But from what I could see they it was like a big party. The government workers are fighting the age barrier to be raised for retirement. (photo)

I fortify myself on ice cream cones and because there is so much less exercise than I had last fall in Paris, I am putting on weight! Eeegads! If the weather breaks so I can resume my normal exercise routine I will be skinny by the time I get home...if the weather breaks....

I went to a MeetUp dinner last Sunday and it was fun. And a different Meet UP group on Tuesday night was held in an artist's studio.

Last Monday my girlfriend, Robbin, and I went to a hammam in my area. We steamed and sauna-ed, were scrubbed by a brunhilda-type woman who I called Mama (respectfully) and then they poured clay all over us. After this we fell asleep in the "Relaxation Room" and finished off with a short massage. My skin felt great.

On Tuesday I went to Musee D'Orsay to take an English tour. It is such a crowded museum that the challenge of not letting the crowds get you is concrete. But I am a member who plans to get a lot out of her membership so I put up with it. They are renovating the entire upstairs so that really makes it very condensed.

On Wednesday I took off with my hiking group to a town called Saint Germain en laye, a half hour train ride to the west. Our leader took us to another forest and we traipsed around in there, in the shade, thank god, and enjoyed ourselves. Next Wednesday I am the leader in the hiking group. I asked everyone to wear Red, White and Blue and for the Yanks to bring a picnic item to share with the French. It is a wonderful group. (photo)


Last night I listened to a wonderful one-hour concert by the Le Choeur du Monastere, Saint Alexandre Nevsky de Saint Petersbourg, Russie. Got that? Basically, it was a group of nine priests (I think) all young and singing in Russian religious chanting, almost. Hard to describe. It was at Paris' St Geraine de Pres Church. I didn't understand a word they sang but their voices were beautiful and in this venue it all felt very holy, very touching. To think these nine young men have pledged a life to God of poverty, chastity and obedience and then soujourn across the world to spread His Word. It was my version of going to church. Before that I went to Cafe Des Magot for drinks and dinner.

Today, Friday, I inspired my girlfried, Robbin (who never exercises) to go bike-riding with me along the canal. Then we came home and talked about what we want to accomplish - food wise - in the next and final month of my stay in Paris. Two foodies: that we be!

I am off this evening to meet another friend. It just started to rain; perhaps it will break the weather (?) Yeah, perhaps hell will be air conditioned! Probably not.

HAPPY JULY 4 TO ALL OF YOU!

Help Me! I am melting....

Summer In Paris

If you don't like the weather in Paris, hang on; it will change at any moment. After endless rain and cold weather it has finally turned into summer weather: hot and humid. I understand how everyone wants to escape to the seaside somewhere! Me, too!

Last week I hiked with my hiking group outside of south Paris in the Foret (Forest)de Rambouillet (18k)and the weather that day was gorgeous and it was truly a lovely way to learn France. I like this French/English group. Most of them are middle aged to older and yet they do these rigorous Wednesday walks in or near Paris with great spirit and little struggle. We brought our lunches and ate in the woods. Eventually, we took the train back to Paris. Fun!



I snatched a ticket to Mikhail Baryshnikov(photo) through Craigslist and attended last weekend. It was bitter sweet. I knew I was watching the final stages of a great talent. He was not, of course, what he was. After all. he is in his 60s. But the four numbers, a couple of which were shared with another aging giant, Ana Laguna, were mostly great fun. His loyal following and fans burst the small theatre with applause. One number, they cleverly had him dancing with a film of himself at a much younger age. Very creative performance and I thoroughly enjoyed it. And I was in the six row although in the photo you can hardly tell it is Misha. And it was a "steal" at 45 euros!

A girlfriend and I had planned to bike in Versailles last weekend but rain ruined that plan. We had to go to Versailles as we had tickets to what was supposed to be a Fireworks "Spectacular". No rain refunds. So we went and had dinner and attended this "Spectacular". Americans are used to so much that the idea that a twenty minute fireworks display (photo)would be spectacular was almost comical. And cold as winter! But we were there.

On Monday Paris, France and a lot of European countries celebrated the longest day of the year with Fete de la Musique. Throughout Paris musicians played in squares, at corners, inside and outside and the masses prowled the streets looking (and drinking) for more free concerts. I had dinner with a friend in the fifth arrondissement on rue Mouffetard (photo) at a restaurant that could have been a Hollywood scene it was so perfectly French-looking. It was a fun evening. Soon I will write restaurant recommendations. But not this time.

All along I had a goal of seeing every medium and major park in Paris. Yet, I may not make it: there are so many! Gads! Yesterday, I traveled across Paris to the Southwest just across the Paris boarder to St. Cloud. It was enormous and lovely with a pretty church near by.

I have been Googling Paris museums and discovering wonderful places. Last weekend I marched over to Baccarat "Museum". It was a WOW place that is for sure. You entered on a red carpet with dazzling little lights on both sides. There is a greeter in a hushed, elegant atmosphere. I took photos till they told me I was not supposed to (and then I snuck photos) and they didn't seem to care. The "gift shop" was in my opinion more beautiful than the museum itself. Everywhere there were these gorgeous hanging chandeliers as well as sparkling, perfect tablewear. Two of the rooms had the same type of decorations as Opera Garnier did: recessed ceilings with hand painted murals, gold relief statues, opulent chandeliers: exquisite. Really, it was like walking into a Chocolate Factory for me: overpowering. Of course, as I would in a chocolate factory, I succumbed to the temptation and bought a lovely (albeit small) vase: my first Bacarrat! I love it! And they offer an exquisite restaurant that could serve a King (or in my case, a Queen) and I am going to be sure to eat there before I leave early August.

Last night I took myself to an African restaurant: L'Atlantide at 7 avenue Laumiere, walking distance from my apartment. It was a most enjoyable meal (photo) lamb tagine with figs and dates and unusual spices, and I splurged on a half bottle of wine. Then I walked for about three miles before I went home. It was a peaceful, lovely evening.

Today I visited two memorials: The Shoal Memorial of the Holocaust and the Jewish Art and History Museum. I particularly liked the Art and History Museum. They included in the admission a tape in English so I could understand the historical context of what I was looking at. I am ashamed to say it took me way to long to see these museums.

Besides being horribly hot today Paris (and France) went on strike over age of retirement for government workers. People everywhere and it made the already steamy, crowded metro impossible. I was delighted to get home and away from the crowds.

I am giving up on the men in Paris...well, almost. Having joined Match's sister website: Meetig, I have been deluged with dating opportunities. It really is too much. I can't keep up with it all: and it is darn confusing: which Jean Louis is calling? Then there is Jean Paul, Jean Phillipe, Phillipe Louis, yikes! After screwing up and being allegedly stood up because of language limitations I am going back to my original plan: just experience this on my own. It will save what's left of my sanity.

Lots more planned but I will share that with you in the future. It is impossible to be bored in Paris.

A Weekend in Paris

One of the things many miss when they visit Paris is just the sheer delight of having no goals, of meandering the streets of Paris in whatever arrodissement in which you find yourself.
After a fun Friday night Saturday morning I set out to a cute restaurant overlooking the Seine and the south side of Notre Dame. Had a typical Parisenne salad (Nicose) and just sat and enjoyed the scenario. Then I wondered the fifth arrondissement happening upon the strangest chairs I have ever seen (photos); would you be enticed to sit on one of those chairs? Then on I went to find a beggar with his cat and two rabbits. At first it appears that the cat is about to eat the rabbits but upon examination was merely treating the rabbits as his personal pets, jumping on top, rolling them over with his paws. PAX.

Then I happened upon a cute open air market place, which I will have to return to, went on through Luxenbourg Gardens to a museum I had been meaning to visit for a month: Musee Zadkine, a sculptorist who lived in the early 1900s during the Picasso and Rodin period and you can see their influence on his sculptures. They also had a special exposition of a Chinese sculptorist, Wang Keping, who cust trees and then sculpts from the limbs. It was really a cool and interesting exhibit and none of my French or English friends have ever heard of it!. Tre cool when I discover such a find.
I walked near the canal last night with the twinkling lights at dusk and it was quite pretty (photo).
Today, Sunday went down to the other end of my metro line(always interesting characters to see on the metro: above photo) to the 13th arrondissement, Place d'Italie, where there was an art show going on all over the neighborhood in the artists' homes or studios. So I became acquainted with the 13th.They had the largest open air marketplace I have seen in Paris, literally blocks of vendors. If you couldn't find something wonderful to eat you must be bulimic!
If I wrote travel articles I would urge travelers to be sure they have relaxing, goal-less walks whereever they travel. It may be the favorite part of their trip.
So, what did you do with your weekend?

Giverney Beauty

The flowers were not as profuse or gorgeous as they were last October when my sister and I visited Giverney, and I nearly died of a heat stroke, but Giverney remains a beautiful place that my spirit returns to when it needs peace....

Brian and Me

Where did I leave off? Oh yeah, American Airlines put us through hell. We dropped our lives and tried to meet their very last minuteand their ever-growing demands for more medical documentation (even though they had waited for five months to the day before Brian was to travel to tell us what they needed). I don't give up easily. I rise to the challenge but it is a wise person who knows when, no matter what one does, it will not be enough.
We dropped American and went with United. It cost me $800 more but I was not about to let American ruin Brian and mine vacation in Paris.
Brian had few problems on the flight and arrived safe and sound. But when he was here challenges evolved on a daily basis and his body had a difficult time in making the time transitions and med intake. I was ever vigillent in watching out for him most particularly after there was a bloody seizure at the Eiffel Tower. With police, riffled military surrounding him I realized that the personon the ground was my darling Brian. I rushed over as the military pointed their guns at me and yelled at them "I am his mother, his mere, his mamom. Get out of my way". Wisely,they let me through. They knew a mother when they saw one.
We were blessed that a lovely couple from Holland were the first to assist him and kept him from further serious head injuries. But in biting his tongue, lip and inside of his mouth he was covered in blood and there was a pool of blood next to him soaking into the cement.
We were eventually taken to a local hospital although I had requested The American Hospital in Paris. This hospitol was not the poster card for socialized medicine. We realized a long, long wait in the ER and its corridors would ensue and what he needed was to get home and take a missed dosage of medicine and get some sleep. So we left, took a taxi across Paris to the apartment.
In this respect (seizures) we were challenged frequently. As the time progressed, however, he had them less often and with less ferocity.
In between we experienced really high temperatures and loads of rainy days, but still we managed to see: Giverney (photo in follow up photo gallery), Musee D'Orsay, Montmartre ,Opera Garnier, the 3,4,6th arrondissments, Luxemborg Gardens, rue Mouffard, parc de la Villette and parc Buttes Charmont, lots of restaurants, Notre Dame,the Eiffel Tower and took a Seine boat trip.
We enjoyed real croissants; Brian tried foie gras (and liked it), beef carpaccio, and lots of French pastries.
The double sided coin: stress and joy. I choose to remember the joy. I know Brian always does, as well.

The Ups and Downs of Travel

I am supposed to like this, I know. I am, after all, a veteran traveler. For more than forty years I have traipsed around the globe learning by doing. Boy, do I have my degree, heck advanced degree in "Travel".

There is always something happening at home, of course, but crises are a little easier to handle in Anglais! Here my homeowner has left me quite un-connected with proper English-speaking reps.That has made all the newest, latest challenges more frustrating.I was without a phone for over a week and my elevator was down two days. I walked up the seven flights four different times on Sunday. That is like climbing a 28 story building! That and 90 plus degree weather make me want to pick up and go home to California.

Last week I went to an art exhibit, which clearly was not exactly my preference in art. I had never heard of Takeshi Kitano, Japanese actor, painter, television personality and celebrity-at-large. Now I have. With a little Picasso influence to his paintings and "exhibits" he was an interesting, talented "artist" but still you won't see his "art" decorating the walls of my home at any time. Unfortunately, they wouldn't allow my camera so I can't show you any of his art, but you can always Google him.

I did get to what I consider "good art": The Turner Exhibition was playing at the Grand Palais. I had to go and queque up for tickets first to avoid the long queques at the Grand Palais. What I then had to do was queque up with the people who had bought their tickets and wanted to avoid the lines. It was masses of humanity. Gads! This is the price of the ever-popular Paris. I managed to enjoy somehow what I saw but didn't linger with the crowds very long, I can tell you that.

I had dejeuner (lunch) at the most darling restaurant in the 4th. I was the only English speaking person there. Fortunately, my companion spoke fluent French and we had a gloriously wonderful lunch in perfect weather. It is a curious custom that the French almost always drink wine with lunch, and from my admittedly limited experience, plenty of it. We started with white wine, went on to rouge and I polished off a wonderful canard (duck) dish with morel sauce that was fabulous. Then on to the fromage!

I finally connected with an old girlfriend of mine. On Sunday we went to a big,outdoor show that was alleged to be an artistic representation of "Nature Capitale" on the Champs-Elysees. "Creator/Director" of street art, Gad Weil, turned the street into a huge field of corn twenty years ago (this is "art"?). Maybe I should save the scraps of garbage I have and announced something to the world Green "art". It would be a smash hit (except with the neighbors). It was supposed to represent the "fragile balance between human beings and their environment". Supposedly it formed a huge mosaic - testimony to biodiversity in France. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I don't think so...

What it quickly,very quickly came to symbolize was a mass of humanity in 90 degree weather pushing and shoving to walk two meters. Gads, Robin and I hustled out of there as soon as we could. Not only was it an awful "mosaic" but because it was free half of Paris was there to looky-loo. The other half knew better.

Robin and I went then to my favorite park, Buttes Chaumont, sat down under a cool tree and had our picnic lunch. All the parks were packed, of course,with the other half of Paris. But if your eye wandered over the calm, pretty scene of rolling hills, trees, pond and waterfalls..if your intellect took in the diversity of Parisennes you could almost see artist, Pissaro, painting the families relaxing and playing. All we need were his dots to connect the past to the present. Actually I did see an artist (photo) although he was not exactly of Pizarro's league. I could have stayed there all day. I love this park.

There are two parks in my neighborhood, or arrondissment (19): Parc des Buttes Chaumont and Par de la Villette, which is only one block away from me. Villette is quite different. It parallels the canal near my apartment. It is filled with crazy, modern giant sculptures, several playgrounds, a carousel, rides, goodies for children, a restaurant, art museum (again modern to match the park theme), conseratorie of music and several other things. On Saturdays and Sundays there are concerts from 2-9 PM on and off all day. I can hear it from my apartment. It sounds quite alluring and should be fun to have a picnic with my son, Brian, when he finally arrives. The canal itself sports tourists boats and is double-sided with a walking path and biking path that leads out to the forest, which I expect to visit soon.

My neighborhood is a Kalidiscope of cultures, races and religious diversity. There are loads of Hasidic Jews, Muslims of all nationalities and Africans dressed in colorful tribal attire. And, because they have so many holy days (read holidays) there must be a major influx of Christians somewhere although there doesn't appear to be many churches. It seems odd to me that so many in Paris are Christians who benefit from the enormous amount of holy days (the last was Pentecost) because they take off for long weekends. Yet, other than the Italians, the French have rather liberal viewpoints and lifestyles compared to Americans. The worse part is that is is so far away from central Paris and its ambiance and charms.

Finally, I wish I didn't have the time to write this. I wish I was busy anticipating my son's arrival tomorrow morning. Instead, I need to get off this blog and continue fighting with American Airlines about allowing Brian to fly to Paris. They have really let us down (that is a nice way to put it) and due to a series of lack of communications, inaccurate communications between them and Brian's medical doctors, they told Brian hours ago that they were not allowing him to fly. My heart sunk. His spirit was crushed. And they waited till the day before his flight time to talk to him about it. Of course, old Mere (mother) here was immediately on the phone with a zillion people and I remain hopeful they will reschedule him in a day or two. But who knows? Better yet, in the airline industry who cares? I have planned a load of wonderful activities for him and pray he will get to experience that. We certainly have to work for everything, don't we? And in Brian's case we always have to fight for it.

Return to Paris

When I stepped off the plane on May 5 Paris was 40 degees. Bienvenue a Paris!
I was totally unprepared. It was spring for Pete's sake. I had one very thin spring jacket more for fashion than warmth. All my shoes were inappropriate. I had no gloves. If that weren't bad enough (never say it can't get any worse)it has rained on and off all day every day, which left me in a quandry of how to dress. Fortunately for me, the lady who's apartment I am renting told me I could wear any of her coats. She was a size smaller but I snuggled into those winter jackets and coats with my summer open-toed shoes and looked a little like an immigrant from the New World, which is exactly what I was. Humbling.

As always, it is a bit of adjustment to move across the world. Right now I have no phone in the apartment that is working. Have no idea why. I am always searching my new neighborhood for the services I need. Today I struck "gold". I found a nail lady to do my nails. This is the oddest little shop I have ever seen. One cannot open the door fully because there is a large post directly inside the entrance, which I presume cannot be removed because of structure security. I have to squeeze (glad I am not any bigger) around it to get inside. It has an over-powering aroma of chemicals and other strange smells that may necessitate my putting a pollution mask on to sit there and have them done next week. Directly next store I found a hair salon. To color and cut my hair the man will charge me 29 euros. Heck, it costs 25 euro for my nails in that hell hole! Could that be a red flag? He speaks no English but the English speaking customer having her hair done said he is very good (I liked her hair cut) so that ought to be an adventure, too!

To start, I am having a directly opposite experience in Paris than I did last fall. It seems I have angered somehow the Paris gods. I have nice dates I must admit but have never heard from them again. Apparently, one day with moi propells them off the face of the earth. Scary! I was invited to a wine tasting last week and happily went to it with a "date". No sooner did he hand over the ticket to me than he told me to go whereever I want; I did not have to stay with him...? Then the Paris gods whipped him off the face of the earth. Never saw or heard from him again(Do I have spinach in my teeth?). Still I managed to go through three huge rooms of tables set up with French wines and give it the old college try. Lots of fun! The first night here I had a lovely evening with a charming Turkish man. We went to dinner in the 6th. He seemed quite interested when he purchased a bottle of Domaine Des Billards Saint-Amour to honor me, he stated proudly. I loved the wine. No, it had nothing to do with the name, Saint-Amour. Really. Is there a Saint-Amour? Only the Frenchies know for sure, but it sounded realistic to me (I was under its influence). Anyway, leave it to them to name a wine that has to be a knock out big seller just because of the label, which I took home with me. Pour me another one, my cheri. Never saw him again; his family will miss him.

And I know I logged about the long queques last time, but somehow they haven't improved in my absence. I want to be a consultant to these business people and tell them how easy it would be to shorten the lines and lengthen the customers' tempers. I could make a lot of money and maybe receive the Nobel Peace Prize.

In between cloudy skies and inclement weather I managed to get to Opera Garnier three times for opera tickets to wait in the long queques and then be told to come back tomorrow. When I couldn't get any available opera seats I, in my American practical wisdom, went to Craig's List and found an Opera Ticket for last night: Les Contes d'Hoffmann. It wasn't on my priorty list but I like to see operas in Paris. And it was at Opera Bastille, which is easier for me to travel to from my apartment. I negotiated the ticket price (ah, the nerve of me!) and paid 69 euros for a first balcony seat. I am not crazy about Opera Bastille. It is very stark plain and has steep steps, but I have to give them credit for their tremendous abilities at impressive staging. It just amazed me as they changed the scenery from one eleborate setting to another with dozens and dozens of ensemble cast. It was the shortest 3 1/2 hour opera I have ever seen. The ensemble casts tend to be first-class. I didn't go with any date so the population in Paris didn't decrease last night.

I also went to Craig's List and bought a ticket to see a short program with Mikhail Baryshnikov in June. I saw him twenty years ago in Phoenix, where he was booed because of his eccentric presentation of his ballet company. At that time we paid $300 for our tickets and an additional amount to attend a reception he was supposed to be at. In the June program he is dancing three solo numbers and one with a French (also dinosaur)female ballet star, Anna Laguna, who takes top billing! I was charged a mere $45 euro for the program, which was the higher price of ticket offerings. For Baryshinikov?! And even though I had that previous bad experience with his performance I wanted to see him again (and I could even afford it!) one more time before he goes to meet God. He's an antique in the ballet world.

Finally, I dragged a nice friend to Opera Garnier yesterday and it was opening up tickets for a ballet La Petite Danseuse de Degas at Opera Garnier and I purchsed a really good ticket in the orchestra for July.

What all this ups and downs has taught me is to remember that Paris sells tickets many months ahead of time. If I want to go to the Ballet or Opera I should have ordered from home. Dummy. I remember that by now.

My mood fluctuates constantly based on the mercy of the weather god. But as the weather broke last weekend I am feeling better today. On Saturday I went for a one hour power walk, came home showered, changed and went off and walked for seven more sunny hours! I loved it! Did the same the next day (minus the power walk) and bought some new clothes which I love.

I bought a membership in the Musee d'Orsay, which I should have done last September. It allows me to go to their special exhibits free and half price at their concerts. I have already attend one opera there and one classical concert. They had one beastly exhibit called Crime and Punishment. In the middle of all these morbid paintings I started to giggle. All I could think of was that the audience who attended and admired that exhibit were scarier than the exhibit. Why would human beings want to see paintings of mothers chopping up their children? Gross! But for me, free, because I am a member. Such a deal! Lucky me, I giggled.

One day, stuck in the rain, I remembered a song from decades ago called "Hello Mudder, Hello Fudder". Here is my partial rendition of that song:

"Bonjour Mudder, bonjour faddur,
Here I am back in my Paris
Paris is very entertaining and I'm sure
I'll have some fun if it stops raining.

It is dark and gloomy! Can this be my Paris?
There is no sun out there on my terrace.
Life is dull, life is boring
and I'm sure I'll have some fun when it stops pouring.

Cloudy skies,rainy weather, what a bore
that I forgot what I came here for.

Wait a minute, it stopped raining!
It stopped, pouring, it stopped hailing!
The sun is out now, Gee that's better.
Gee, mon ami, kindly disregard this letter!"

OK, so I am not a poet, but you get the idea. The weather is favored now by the Sun god! I say bienvenue to him. High time he reared his beautiful head.

Gotta run. Right now, I have to get ready for a date...should I call his family to say their farewells?