Saturday, October 24, 2009
It's Raining, It's Pouring...
Well, it seems I broke my toe the last night my sister was here....have no idea how, but it has left me hobbling everywhere and less active than I normally am. That and the rain have slowed me down. But there is an extra dimension of walking in the rain that is still a bit romantic. As you walk the scenes unfold differently, with more warmth, more of a surreal romanticism. Look in the shops, the cafes, the pubs and they all appear even more welcoming; a sort of shelter from the storm. It must be very rewarding to capture such scenes if one is a painter or photographer.
There is something incredible about Craig's List; you can actually meet interesting, legitimate people through it - although always exercising caution. Last week I met and shared a day and evening with a very nice man from my home town, Chicago. We spent the day walking around the 6th arrondissment, into Luxembourg Gardens (my favorite gardens in Paris because it is lush, deep, quiet and beautiful), sat under the trees for a nice conversation, protected from the rain and on to the Tiffany Exhibit. BTW, the photo of the Statue of Liberty was erected in Luxembourg Gardens by the French American community after 9/11 in a show of support for Americans. The Tiffany Exhibit was exquisite, as would be expected. Unfortunately, they didn't allow cameras. Of course, since most of the museums allow cameras that was disappointing because I would have loved to shown you some of the exquisite works coming from the house of Tiffany.
At 5 PM, I rushed, well, hobbled home, showered, changed and off we went to Le Dome (the review is in Mange column) for dinner. It was a warm, welcoming and typically Parisian restaurant with its lush wood and stained glass. Not haute cuisine but pricey, none the less: Lobster salad, which we shared was 57 euro! Then add on your entree, dessert and wine and you have an extravagant evening.(1 euro is = to about 165 American right now)
From there we went on to the Latin district to a club with dancing (see sign on the street in Latin quarter). I think it was called Le Huchette. It was built like all the rooms were caves. In the bottom cave was a very credible music group and dancers that were as good as professionals. It was an eclectic group of people and typically what you hope to find in Paris but often can't. We didn't leave there till 2:30 in the morning. Looking for a cab at that hour is nuts. Plan and simple. There were ques (my favorite thing) on every corner. At 2:30 in the morning there are still huge demands for taxis. I found out the next day that one has to have a number to call a cab. Don't expect to find one in Paris at 2:30 in the morning. We were miles from my apartment and his hotel and we began walking. That is HE began walking; I hobbled. Finally, after more than an hour he got aggressive and practically stepped in front of a cab that was empty. I got home close to 4 am. I can't remember what decade last it was that I stayed up that late. But, hobbling, rain, lack of taxi and all it was just a really fun, great experience and I enjoyed it all. I paid the price for all that walking the next day, but I wouldn't have passed up the experience.
So this week, by necessity I didn't do a whole lot besides read Ken Follett's "The Pillars of the Earth" (about the lives of the people who built the great cathedrals of Europe) and rest. Well, I did a few things, actually:
I went to the oldest market place in Paris, about 400-500 years old, but didn't like it near so much as the one close to my home, which is huge and offers so much more quality. Then, with a meet up group, we had lunch nearby at a cafe and it was surprisingly good.
Monday I went on a 2 hour walking tour of the lesser known 11th arrondissment. It is an area I would never go to myself, not because it is dangerous it is just a working man's area but with an interesting history to it, nonetheless. It is where there were/are passageways running from one building to another so that(historically) fabric cold be moved from one building to another without getting it wet. There are artisans' workshops on ground floors and residential quarters upstairs. Fabric stores, craftsmen, old fashioned hardware stores: they all hang signs out to tell what it is they offer within their little shops. Afterwards, I met a new friend for an English/French exchange so we could practice our language skills. As usual, he was much better than I am, but it was fun, nonetheless. The cafes got me for 5 euro for a cup of tea! Highway robbery.
On Tuesday, I stayed home during the day and met up with another Meet Up group in an old pub near Saint Michel fountain. Fun, but was home early (see: behaving myself again).
On Wednesday, I was supposed to go to Chartres, France for a day trip. Unfortunately, the rain suggested otherwise. So, we went to a little known museum, Marmotten, a private home made into a museum of wonderful art with over one hundred paintings by Monet. I am now an expert on Monet; I have been to every museum with his art work in Paris and twice to Giverney.
On Wednesday evening I saw my good friend, Julien, and in the rain he drove us over to get some crepes for dinner.
On Thursday, in the light, drizzling rain I walked to rue Commerce to go shopping. OK, I couldn't help myself. The sales are on, for Pete's sake, and I wanted to buy a few things.
On Friday, in the drizzling rain I walked to another area to look for boots. One Must Have Boots if one is Femme and in Paris. It is a fashion statement. And boy are they expensisve! Dear god. But I was tired of looking like a dowanger princess and I finally bought a pair.
Today, Saturday, I hobbled over, in light rain to the Pantheon, which I had never seen before. (See photos). Over the entrance of the door: "To The Great Men of the Fatherland". Here they have buried great men (and a few women). It wasn't as exciting as some of the other monuments, but sort of cool to visit where Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Alexander Dumas etc were buried. And I climbed up the 200 narrow, winding steps to take a look out over the city (see photo of St Genevieve Church) from the upper dome area.
Then I hobbled home. My toe is feeling better but I have blisters from the new boots. Ouch! My poor feet are in a major protest.
Sunday, I plan to finally visit Versailles again as the weather promises to clear up. Then home to rest my protesting feet.
So that was my week in a glance. How was yours?
Word of the day: Rain Pluie
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